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A Glance Upon The Geography and Name of Khorassan Some believe that the name of Khorassan, attributed to a vast part of the eastern areas of Iran since the 5th century, is a combination of "Khor" (sun) and "assan" (rose). Owing to the invasion of neighbors and domestic political crises, the boundaries of Khorassan have changed in the course of history. Nevertheless, it has always comprised a vast area. The last changes in Khorassan's boundaries date back to the Qajar era, during which, in accordance with the treaty of Paris, Herat and other areas of Afghanistan were separated from Iran in 1273 A.H. Covering an area of over 313,355 sq.km, present-day Khorassan in limited northward by Turkmenistan, westward by Yazd, Esfahan, Semnan and Mazandaran provinces and southward by Sistan, Baluchestan and Kerman provinces. Consisting of mountains, valleys, plains and deserts, Khorassan enjoys diverse climates and varying annual rainfall in its different areas. The geographic features of Khorassan include the northern mountains of Kopedagh, middle ranges including Aladagh and Binalood, and mountains scattered in central and southern parts. Its most important rivers are Atrak, Harirood and Kashafrood. Others are often dry or have a small current. It has a variable climate, with the temperature increasing and the annual rainfall decreasing from north to south. On the basis of the latest divisions in the country (1993), Khorassan consists of 22 cities, 51 towns, 69 districts, 213 villages and 20,501 hamlets. The census of 1991 showed that its present populations exceeds 6,013,000 inhabitants. Khorassan from the archaeological viewpoint As archaeological finds from the prehistoric era attest, Khorassan has enjoyed great splendor. In the 5th millennium BC, most of its northern areas were inhabited. It has a magnificent culture and large towns and villages in the 4th and 3 rd millennia BC as well. Residential areas were scattered throughout it in the 2nd millennium BC. Archaeologists have studied such agglomerations in Dargaz, Shirvan, Bojnoord, Torbat-e Jam, Torbat-e Haydariyeh, Gonabad and Ferdows. In the 1st millennium BC, the number of villages increased, even in the southern areas. Owing to the long stay of Parthians in northern Khorassan and Sagarthians in its southern region, who lived relatively independently, their arts cannot be distinguished as clearly as those of the Medes and Achaemenians, who lived in eastern and western Iran. Possibly, items of Parthian art discovered in northern Khorasan are remains from the beginning of the historic era. Kashafrood valley, the first residence of toolmaker man With the discovery of stone tools on the banks of Kashafrood river in the course of geological studies, this area was included among the first human settlements not only in Iran, but also in western Asia. In excavations carried out in Abrovan village, 40 km southeast of Mashhad, and in Baghballo village, 60 tools were found, including choppers and blades which are 800,000 to 1 million years old. They are the oldest human traces not only in Iran, but also in southeastern Asia. The ancient area of Bandian This area is located 2km northeast of Dargaz. In excavations carried out here, many unique bas-religious value were discovered. By excavating the second stratum, a collection was found which included a large and beautiful hall with stucco carving, corridors, rooms, a fire-temple, ossuaries and a circular room or tower with an aivan. Yarim Tappeh Located 3 km northwest of Dargaz, it is undoubtedly the most important and magnificent ancient area in northeastern Iran. It has a high central oval core which is 80 meters long and 30 meters wide on the average. Some of the patterns decorating its earthenware are unique and incomparable to those found in other regions. Dr. Negahban believes that date back from the 6 millennium BC to the late Sasanian period. Engraved stele of Lakhmazar Some 29 km southeast of Birjand, west of Kooch village, there is a wonderful and unique relief called Lakhmazar. It is a serpentine rock with a shining jade-colored surface lying on a mountain called Chel-Beghiaj. Its surface is covered with more than 300 motifs which can be divided into five general groups, namely human and animals figures, vegetal motifs, signs and inscriptions. The signs appear in such different shapes as the sun, the moon, stars, ears, crosses, life trees, houses and tents. The Lakhmazar inscriptions are varied. Around 81 Persian inscriptions have been found on its surface. Some Arabic and Persian inscriptions dating back from the early Islamic centuries to the present are found. Historic Monuments The Holy Shrine of Emam Reza (pbuh) Martyred in Nowqan in 203 AH, Emam Reza (pbuh) was buried in the vicinity of Harun-ar-Rashid’s tomb in Hamid ebn-e Qahtaba’s garden upon Ma’mun’s orders. Samanid and Ghaznavid rulers devoted efforts to develop the holy shrine. In 516 AH, a mausoleum was built atop his tomb and a superb stone, carved by Abolqassem Ahmadebn-e Ahmad-al- Hosseini, was installed on his grave. In the Kharazmshahi period, numerous developments took place in the shrine. One of them was the offering of a massive stone trough dated 597 AH. In 612 AH, many lustrous and beautiful inscriptions were made to decorate the entrance and plinth of the holy shrine. In addition, two lustrous tile-work prayer niches were built on either side of the entrance. During the reign of Soltan Abu-sa`id, several aivans, minarets and buildings were erected by his minister, `Ala`-ed-din Mohammad Hendu-ye Faru- madi. Tamerlane, beginning his conquests in the second half of the 8th century AH, spared Mashhad and the holy shrine. After his death, Shahrokh came into power and the shrine began prospering. In 821 AH, Gowharshad, the benefactor wife of Shahrokh, built a mosque next to the shrine, as well as two magnificent halls, the Dar-os-Siadeh, north and west of the Emam’s tomb. Amir-`Ali- Shir Nava'i, the minister of Soltan Hossein Baiqara, developed the courtyard and built the entrance aivan. With the advent of the Safavid dynasty, the shrine became yet more important. Shah Emam`il and Shah Tahmasb endoweb many donations. One of the eminent works of the Safavid Shah Tahmasb (930-948 AH) was the gilding of the shrine’s dome. In 997 AH-`abd-ol-mo’men-Khan-e Ozbak caused great damage to the shrine. In 1010 AH, Shah`Abbas went from Esfahan to Mashhad on foot. He had the dome stem covered with gold bricks and an inscription in `Ali-Reza`Abassi’s script installed on it. He also had the eastern part of the `Atiq courtyard enlarged and tow aivans built east and west of the new courtyard. A large aivan called the `Abbasi Aivan was built north of the courtyard, next to the main aivan. When the `Afsha monarch Nader-Shah came into power, the main entrance aivan, called Amir-`Ali- Shir’s Aivan, and also its flanking minarets, were gilded. A new minaret was also built behind the `Abbasi Aivan. The most important development of the shrine in the Qajar period was effected by Fath-`Ali-shah in 1233 AH. This consisted of the construction of a new courtyard. In 1330 AH, the holy shrine sustained cannon fire and was badly damaged by the Russians during operations in which some people were killed. Under the Pahlavi monarch Reza-Khan, a square was built around the shrine. In 1975, the square was enlarged and many of the buildings around it were demolished. After the Islamic Revolution, the shrine was developed and colonnades were built. Flanking the shrine, some scientific and cultural constructions were founded. Today the shrine complex is the most beautiful monument in Islamic architecture. Bazeh-Hoor Building Located east of Robat-e Sefid village, on the old road from Mashhad to Torbat-e Haydariyeh and 75 Km south of Mashhad, there is a building called Bazeh-Hoor. It is very important from the archaeological point of view. Made of rough stone, mortar, plaster and sand, it has a square plan with there tall wide gates. It embodies many elements which recall Parthian and Sasanian architecture. Sangbast Architectural Complex There is an important historic complex in Sangbast, 40 km south of Mashhad on the road to Fariman. One of its constructions is the caravansary of Arsalan Jazeb, the governor-general of toos, built during the reign of the Ghaznavid Soltan Mahmoo. Another is the mausoleum of Arsalan Jazeb, a quadrilateral four- aivan construction. Its interior facade is adorned with brick decoration, inscriptions and frescoes. The minaret was built by Arsalan Jazeb, shortly before the mausoleum and contemporary with the caravansary, nearby the entrance aivan. Nearly 40 meters in height, it is entirely made of bricks. Robat Sharaf One of the most important caravansaries on the Silk Road between Nayshabur and Marv stands 6km away from Shorloq village on the road to Sarakhs. Now covering an area of over 4863 square meters, it is a magnificent architectural complex including tow courtyards measuring 31.4 x 31.3 meters and comprising a mosque, aivans, rooms, tables, colonnades and water cisterns. A brick inscription in kufic script encircles the elevated aivans and numerous stucco carvings and plaster inscriptions adorn the prayer niches and aivans. In 507 AH, this impressive complex was probably built by Soltan Sanjar’s minister, Ashrafoddin Abu- Taher ebn-e Sa`doddin ebn-e `Ali al-Qomi. In 548 AH, it was badly damaged by the Ghoz tribesmen and later restored in 549 AH, when a profusion of decoration and inscriptions were also added. Malek-Zuzan Mosque There is a magnificent building in the abandoned village of Zuzan called Jame` or Malek-Zuzan Mosque..It includes tow eastern and western aivans which are built in accordance with the Hanafi qebleh orientation. Nearly 30 meters high, the qebleh aivan is adorned with frescoes and a tile-work inscriptions in naskh script, giving a date of 626 AH. Ghiasiyeh Madrasa The only remnant of the old Khargerd city is the Ghiasiyeh Madrasa, located south of Khargerd, 5 km southeast of Khaf. Having a rectangular plan, it is a four-aivan building the biggest one of which is the qebleh aivan. The aivans are decorated with stalactites and plaster panels. Eight small aivans stand on either side of each main one and are flanked with tow-storied chambers, resulting in 32 aivans on the whole. The interior decoration of the small aivans is nearly identical, including geometrical shapes and lines in which tiles and carved bricks are combined. According to the inscriptions, it was built thanks to the efforts of Pir-Ahmad Khafi , the Timurid Shahrokh’s minister, and by tow architects called Qavamoddin and Ghiasoddin. The Architectural Complex of Sheikh Jam’s Mausoleum Located east of Torbat-e Jam and dated 447-536 AH, the complex includes 10 parts surrounding a courtyard. The tallest, i.e., the aivan, is 30 meters high and was founded in the first half of the 8 th century. In 1022 AH, it was tile-worked by Shah Abbas I. The Kermani Mosque is situated west of the aivan. Its most beautiful part is the carved stucco prayer niche which has its origins in Il- Khanid design. On the right hand of the aivan, there is a building called Gonbad-Sefid (white dome) or Sardar Mosque, which was restored in the Timurid period. At the end of the aivan, there is a dome founded in 771 AH. Located southeast of the dome, the `Atiq Mosque was built in 720 AH. One of the beautiful buildings facing the courtyard is the Gonbad-e Sabz or Gonbad-e firoozshahi, located northwest of the complex. It was built by Amir Jalaloddin Firoozshahi in 840 AH. Khorshid (sun) Building in Kalat-e Naderi This building is located 145km northeast of Mashhad. Besides having beautiful natural views, it includes monuments such as the defensive walls on the mountains, remains of garrisons, the Arg-e (citadel of) Forood, water cisterns, the residence of Nader-Shah in Khesht, the Naderi Dam and the Kabud-Gonbad Mosque, dating back to the Afshar period. Its most important and renowned building is a remarkably handsome construction which was erroneously called Khorshid Palace, whereas it was know as Nader’s mausoleum in the Qajar period. This unique building, made of bricks and decorated with carved stones, has an octagonal plan and includes a ground floor and a basement. The exterior facades of the aivans are adorned with carved stones. Some floral motifs and patterns of tropical fruits such as bananas and pineapples are carved on some spandrels. The Korshid building is located in a pleasant garden measuring 168 x 122 meters. Toos Located 24 km north of Mashhad, there is a city called Toos which was the largest city in the old Toos (Taberan) area. Some of its remains are as follows: the remains of Toos’ rampart, the Arg-e (citadel) Toos, Haruniyeh Mausoleum, the tomb attributed to Ghazzali and the garden of Ferdowsi’s mausoleum. Although it was built in the present era, it is a place of pilgrimage.
Ethnology Many factors caused different people of various cultures to become residents of Khorasan. Having different worldly outlooks, they lived differently and reflected their divers outlooks. Nowadays one of the most important elements in studying their ethnological features is their living manners. Farmers and animal admirers expected their living to be assured by heavenly munificence. Following an old tradition, when no rain fell, children resorted to the chooliqezak ceremony, innocently asking God to have pity on them and cause rainfall. Making offerings to God, the farmers of Khorassan render thanks at harvest time by performing kakol-boroon rites. Chronology in Khorassan Culture Chronology has been an important subject among people since times immemorial. It shows the relation of different people towards important events. For example, in the villages south of Gonabad, people refer to times of famine, flooding, plundering, locust onslaughts and the military service recruitment under Reza-Khan to indicate dates. In annual chronology, farmers and animal keepers use expressions to their way of living, such as harvesting and sarzeh. Traditional Arts Different people with various beliefs, traditions and views in Khorassan created different artistic works. Therefore this province is the area of various traditional arts, some of which are briefly described: Stone-carving in Mashhad Stone-carving is a time-honored art in Khorassan. Excavation carried out in most of its ancient areas have revealed innumerable pieces of stone vessels. The first reference of some important is probably that related to stone vessels crafted in Mashhad, as recorded in `Oyun-e Akhbar-ar-Reza, written by Sheikh Saduq after 325 AH: "... Having come to Sanabad village. Emam Reza (pbuh) leans on the mountain from which people made pots and prayed for them. He then orders those people to make pots for him. Thereafter, encouraged by him, people made vessels with stones of that mountain which were multiplies as if by blessing." Therefore, the main occupation of Toos craftsmen, especially those of Nowqun, was stone-carving. The kind of stone much used by craftsmen was called har-kareh, which is still used in making vessels and artifacts. The stones are often quarried from the mines located south of Mashhad. They are shaped in workshops with such tools as adzes, files, compasses and chisels. The craftsmen use glass to carve the stone, chisels to hollow it out, files to burnish the vessels and burins of different sizes to engrave inscriptions and patterns on them . The workshops are mainly located in the center of Mashhad and in the countryside. Kashmar Carpet Design Iranian carpets comprise a variety of designs, which have different names and aspects. Kashmar carpets are well known throughout the world for their varied and magnificent designs. These include both traditional and modern patterns. The traditional ones are: Shah-`Abbasi, all-over, medallion, mehrabi (prayer niche), gol-farang and khata’i. The modern patterns comprise so called zir-khaki motifs inspired by those found on vessels unerthed in Shahrabad-e Kashmar as well as landscapes and mirror designs including borders, medallions and corner quarter-medallions. Pottery in Mand, Gonabad Excavations carried out in Gonabad have shown that the area’s pottery originates in the 3rd millennium BC. Pottery workshops have continued to work to the present. Since the early 12th century AH, a new kind of pottery called Mand Pottery, which presents special features, has been made in different workshops of Mand village, located north of Gonabad. The new type of pottery comprises clay pottery and pseudo-porcelain. Although the operations done to make and from them are alike, they are different by their materials and means of production. Madakhela-bafi in Northern Khorassan Madakhela, or Jahra, is a beautiful type of colored decorative bands used in Kurdish and Turkmen areas north of Khorassan. In the past, Madakhela was often woven with black, white, red and yellow silk, but nowadays dyed cotton and plastic threads are mainly used. It was amply utilized in traditional clothes, but now few workshops are producing them. Khorassan Museums Museums are one of the most interesting attractions in Khorassan. The Museum of the Holy Shrine of Emam Reza It is not only the largest and richest museum in Khorassan province, but also one of the most remarkable ones in Iran. The objects presented to the museum form a superb collection. It was built between 1937 and 1945. Some of the historic and beautiful objects were transferred from the treasury to the exhibition hall. Later, the museum of Qor'ans and precious Artifacts and the Stamp Museum were built adjacent to it. The Qor'ans Museum is a two-storied building which presents albums and calligraphic works on the first floor and superb Qor'ans in the second. Birjand Museum Located in the Akbariyeh Garden, the Birjand Museum covers an area of over 670 square meters. It includes archaeological and ethnological sections. The first one exhibits objects from the 2nd millennium BC to the Qajar era. In the second one, besides exhibiting traditional tools, the workshops are presented by means of models. Nayshabur Museum Located east of the Shah-'Abbasi Caravansary in Nayshabur, it consists of two, archaeological and ethnological, sections. The archaeological sectons displays ceramics from the 1st and 2nd millennia BC, objects from the 3rd to 10th centuries and coins from Parthian, Sasanian and Islamic (Samanid, Ghaznavid and Sarbedaran) periods. The ethnological section shows some of the traditional clothes and tools which have been gathered in the course of time. Fart-weaving looms, cotton carders and calico printing tools are exhibited, displaying their traditional production methods. Toos Museum It was built thanks to the efforts of the National Monuments Society in 1968, but inaugurated in 1982. The objects are displayed in two, archaeological and ethnological, sections laid out in four groups. the first one contains objects discovered in excavations carried out in Toos. The second one consists of objects depicting the epic and heroic spirit of the Shahnameh. The third one exhibits objects contemporary with Ferdowsi's period. The last one displays objects presented to the Mausoleum of Ferdowsi. Naderi Garden Museum Contemporary with the construction of Nader-Shah's mausoleum in 1963, a large hall ( known as the main hall) was built adjacent to it. A number of old weapons, including those of the Zand period, are exhibited here. In the small hall, ancient (archaeological) and new (ethnological) objects are displayed.
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